Primarily an academic definition of maximum force:
Maximum strength of fingers in climbing is the maximum isometric contraction that can perform in the muscles of the forearm to keep the hand closed in a particular grabs.
From this definition we can say that, in General, the smaller, or insert, is a grab. the greater the force that we have to do to keep us hanging.
So the longer we stay in small regletes, or bulging, the greater the maximum strength that we must impose on grab.
Following this logic, there will come a moment in a very small, grab or bulged, we can’t be more than a second, and is at present, we are using our maximum strength.
This also occurs when we’re in a grab of larger size and use ballast.
Know that in both situations the forearm muscle contraction will be the same.
However it is important to notice that this maximum strength not necessarily be the absolute force.
When a person tends to make maximum strength, the ideal is that all the muscle fibers to constrict at the same time and with your maximum intensity.
But that’s something that doesn’t happen often and that makes all the difference between our real maximum strength and our absolute maximum strength.
Therefore the absolute force can be much higher than the actual maximum strength, because there is often a large amount of fibers that don’t constrict or your intensity is less when try maximum strength.
In any case we want to find out what is the difference between the maximum strength and absolute strength of your hands, for that we will do an exercise in muscular recruitment (though strictly speaking is neuromotor)
Maximum strength test
Look for a grab, preferably the most relieved toward possible, enabling almost all phalanx of your hand is in contact.
Avoid bending, to unlock the tendons of the friction with the lock, so that the complete transmission of the muscle force play in the tendon.
If we grab 1 1 we can’t stay for 1 to 2 seconds, concluíramos that this grab is of great difficulty.
The advantage of using an insert is to prevent damage to the pulley of the fingers when subjected to large loads.
So it is more than advisable to look for bulging that can’t be more than 2 seconds.
However a note is important: Watch out for those who may be at least one second, he can hurt you.
Perform an initial series to that more can, assuming that the ideal is 1 to 2 seconds.
While it may seem ridiculous this exercise, it is necessary to rest a minute, and then try again but with 10 to 15% extra ballast (the weight must take into consideration the athlete’s body weight.
For example: for athletes with 70 kg ideally use a ballast between 7 to 10 pounds (10 to 15% of the weight of the athlete)
With this ballast and after about a minute the first attempt try again on insert bad.
Probably will last the same amount of time, or even less.
Rest 1 minute and repeat the attempt but this time without the ballast.
Note that at this time the majority will be able to be more seconds than the first attempt with the ballast.
What really happened?
The athlete simply recruited its fibers dormant and your maximum strength and came close to your absolute strength.
Continuing with the exercise and to use ballast, always with a minute’s rest before trying again.
After leaving spend another minute of rest a third attempt without the use of ballast, probably your time be even bigger
This means again that had managed to recruit the fibers.
After about a minute more the athlete can increase a few kilos of ballast re-running your attempts.
On your fourth time without ballast is there a good chance that time obtained is similar, or higher, than the previous attempt.
How many series must be made?
At most 10 times (with and without ballast) because after the 10th attempt your metabolic system phosphocreatine dependent will even follow performing the series will not increase your strength and even fall.
Phosphocreatine is an important energy depot in skeletal muscle, as it carries a high energy phosphate bond similar to ATP.
Why wait a minute between each attempt.
Maximum strength is dependent of phosphocreatine, and it is used almost entirely within the first 6 to 10 seconds of a maximum muscular contraction, but tends to recover up to 95% within the first home.
Why not wait more?
Because after about a minute the recruitment tends to decrease, and so the benefit of adding ballast if loses.
If your time of trial without weight rises after each series, means that your maximum strength is below the absolute force.
The more time you have, the greater the difference between your maximum strength and absolute.
There are those who come to make improvement to 10 seconds in and that means probably the scale of normal way, there’s a good amount of muscle fibers that do not contract efficiently.
In a way this is good, because there is a great potential to improve the maximum force according to make use of these fibers are numb and approaching the value of your absolute strength.
On the other hand, if your time every recruitment is down, probably your maximum strength is your absolute and your potential for minor improvement.
In this case the improvement already occurs by a hypertrophy myofibrillar proteins (hypertrophy of force) of muscle fibers, which in other words is the gain of muscle mass.
Try and check what is your improvement with this simple exercise, in which you can serve to your training.
This type of exercise requires anaerobic glycolytic not energy, because there are great neuromuscular stimulation, which is not recommended to make more than once a day and two to three times a week.
The anaerobic exercise is any chemical activity that work different muscle groups during a given period of time and constant, continuous and rhythmic, i.e. any exercise consisting of fast high intensity movements.
Do not perform this training without the supervision of a professional degree in a physical education course.
Any exercise performed at the Academy of climbing must be supervised by a licensed professional.
Authorized Translation: http://soloboulder.com/
What Is Maximum Strength Of The Fingers In Climbing
Primarily an academic definition of maximum force: